Cartier Shines at Mallams’ Oxford Jewellery Sale as Earrings Sell for £35,000

Cartier’s reputation for refined design and exceptional craftsmanship has long appealed to discerning collectors, and even royalty. From elegant creations inspired by historical revivalism, to the iconic red leather presentation cases for which it is famed, the maison’s work continues to set a benchmark for quality and style. That enduring appeal was evident at Mallams’ recent Jewellery, Watches & Silver sale in Oxford, where a rare pair of Cartier earrings, new to the auction market, attracted strong international interest and fierce bidding.

Dating from the inter-war years and exemplifying Art Deco design, the natural pearl and diamond pendant style earrings (lot 151) sold for an impressive £35,000 plus buyer’s premium. Surmounted with chevrons of baguette-cut diamonds and accompanied by the maker’s original gilt tooled double opening case, these earrings were the highlight lot of the sale.

Above: Pair of Art Deco natural pearl and diamond ear pendants by Cartier, signed Cartier London (Lot 151)

A diamond panel ring of similar date, and possibly also by Cartier (lot 150), faintly signed and numbered, sold for £15,000 on the hammer. This lot was similarly accompanied by a Cartier case and sourced from the same private collection as the earrings, selling to the same telephone bidder after frenzied international bidding.

Not quite centre stage, but waiting in the wings, was lot 162, a stunning mid to late 19^th century amethyst parure, comprising a rivière necklace, a pair of bracelets, a brooch and a pair of ear pendants. Complete with its original retailer’s case, this lot was consigned by Mallams at their regular valuation mornings held at The Leander Club in Henley-on-Thames.

Estimated at between £2,000 and £3,000, bidding started at almost twice the high estimate, with the hammer finally going down at an impressive £19,000. 

Above left: An Art Deco diamond panel ring possibly by Cartier (Lot 150); Above right: A mid to late 19th century amethyst parure (Lot 162)

Mallams’ next jewellery auction, The Collective Sale, will feature a curated selection of jewellery, watches, silver, and vintage fashion accessories. The timed online sale will run from 14 to 31 July, with entries closing on 13 June. 

Lovers of Cartier may also be interested to visit the new eponymous exhibition staged by The V&A in London, which charts the evolution of the jewellery maison’s designs and craftsmanship and incorporates over 350 different objects. Due to popular demand, the exhibition has recently been extended and will run until November this year.

V&A Cartier exhibition